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Old 26th February 2013, 12:28 PM   #1
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Default YTX-14 BS Batteries

For a couple of months, with plenty of time to spare, decided to do a little research on the battery issues of our bikes, hoping that if we connect this thread with ones from other members plus some new ideas we will reach a conclusion as to what is wrong with the bikes destroying so fast their batteries.
I, in my opinion, found the reason for it, explanation is given below.
First found that companies manufacturing this type of battery and their retail price (no VAT) are:
DEKA 95
FUKUYAMA 40
YUASA 50
BS 45
OYEK 45
BOSCH 90
CONTEC 50
VARTA 70
MGM 60
DYNALOLT 45
MOTOBATT 50
AGM 85
EXIDE 95
All are coming with one year warranty and in two years all are close to dead, since more than 60% of the lead (or other type) cells inside are being consumed, WHY ???
Having in mind an old issue with TRIUMPH bikes and their battery, consumed after less than a year, there the guilty part was identified as the bikes generator that was charging bat only after 4500 rpms, remember that company dealt with the issue by providing an extra kit installed next to the engine in a very advisable and bad looking position. With this in mind i looked on where BMW gens operate, well yes they too operate after ruffly 3500 rpms.
I thing that this is the reason. Simply BMW generators are producing enough juice to charge bikes battery only on engine running over 3500 rpms, Result; the battery on small city trips and low rpms is only dying and of course leaving the bike on idle (an old procedure left from 60 and 70 bikes) now just speeds up the destruction of the cells.
What can be done? well nothing at all, only leave the bike on the charger every almost every ride, then change battery every two years.
,,.,.r,.r,.eme YES my thoughts exactly.

Last edited by costas; 27th February 2013 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 26th February 2013, 01:54 PM   #2
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Hmmm! I'm no battery expert but one thing I know for sure is that my bike is on its fourth battery in eight years. Compare this to my last four cars, all have been modern, top of the range, large capacity petrol and diesel engined beasts full of electric wizardry and running motors for absolutely everything except the cup holders.

Every one of them, most over five years old when purchased, was not only on its original battery when I bought it, it was still on its original battery when I sold it.

I haven't had to buy a CAR battery since 1988 and that car was five years old then. I was so impressed that I went straight back to the dealer and bought another manufacturers battery. (And that was Vauxhall/GM so not a 'premier' brand in UK).

Every car I have owned since then, in fact every one in the family, has been on original equipment batteries and none have gone anywhere near needing replacing in all that time. Also, all have been sealed batteries to my recollection!

Also in contrast, my R1150GS was on its original battery when I bought the bike (2002/3 Bike, bought in 2005 from original owner, with 17,000 miles on the clock) and that battery (never topped up by the stealers cos 'Its got a sealed battery!' even thought it didn't have!!) only failed me in January 2011 and only then because of dealer abuse and lack of attention from the idiot owner, ie ME! So, that battery lasted EIGHT years and after a good charge on my Optimate III, was still starting and running the bike first time every time when the Odyssey arrived and the original went to the scrap man. I had bought the Odyssey at the first sign of trouble whilst in the dealers and when the service manager told me the original 'Is beyond saving!' Pwhaw!

In my ownership, that original battery was kept on an Optimate when parked up except for the first year I had it.

I know my early K12 has a reputation of eating batteries because of the idiot electric brake servo but as long as you don't hold it on the brakes at lights and never turn the ignition on when maneouvering it on the drive, as well as keeping it on an Optimate when parked up, then it should last too.

As I always say, more anon,

Brian
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Old 26th February 2013, 05:29 PM   #3
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Smile Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

I ride all year round, irrespective of the weather and by the end of the second winter the battery is usually ready for renewal, so as a matter of course I factor this cost into the running costs and replace it no matter, Cheers just my 10p worth
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Old 27th February 2013, 11:40 AM   #4
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Hi there,

I'm a newbie to this forum currently looking to buy a K13s.

There is a very easy way to check at what rpm a bike battery begins to charge.

Use any cheap and cheerful voltmeter and connect to the battery or even the power socket being careful not to short things out. Run the engine gently increasing the revs. At some point the meter will begin to rise, it doesn't matter what the voltage is. The rise in voltage is telling you the alternator is putting more into the battery than it is taking out. You can also detect when a generator is generating by looking at the headlight - when it begins to go brighter it's charging.

If you want to check it isn't over-charging rev the bike up and check the voltage does not rise above about 14.5 because if it does the regulator is duff and that will fry the battery for sure.

I would expect, as with my BMW HP2s, it will charge at just over tickover with the lights (of course) on.

If the generator isn't man enough, the first thing you'll notice is the bike's starter motor will not turn the engine over properly in the morning.

HTH.

Norm.
P.S. I can't grind a crankshaft but this sort of stuff is my job.
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Old 27th February 2013, 02:50 PM   #5
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Welcome Norm,

Glad to have someone who understands this stuff on board.

Maybe if you really understand it you could get a job with BMW and sort out the non-starting K's for them.

Brian
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Old 27th February 2013, 03:07 PM   #6
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Thanks Brian,

I am hoping I like the K1300s when I ride a demo shortly. The HP2s is fantastic to ride long distances - really. But I'm a wierd sort of guy who wants a HP2 sport with a 200 mile tank range and decent luggage. But I've done farting around looking for larger tanks and strengthening the tail piece for luggage hence .... I'm here. It'll be a change to have a bike that's heavier than me
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Old 27th February 2013, 03:19 PM   #7
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

My God, Norm, you must be a really light guy

Enjoy, Brian
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Old 28th February 2013, 06:47 AM   #8
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Welcome Norm, that was the procedure followed on the my K13 and had the v readings over 3500 rpms exactly as you describe them. Now it would interesting to see another bike in UK and see if it gives the same result. Still waiting for our friend from USA to have his bike measured and then we compare results. Who knows as with many other might be a different gen in the other continent.
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Old 28th February 2013, 09:00 AM   #9
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Maybe a freak of nature but my 2002 K1200 RS 21,000 miles appears to be on its original battery. I do keep the battery on a CTEK when not in use. Seems since the onset of the CANBUS system things have gone less reliable.

Kenno.

Last edited by Kenno; 28th February 2013 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 1st March 2013, 08:28 AM   #10
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Default Re: YTX-14 BS Batteries

Got my hands on some chargers and now will connect them on some old used batteries me and my chaps are keeping for emergencies, sometime next week will inform about charger and their real performance.
Gadgets now in test
BMW old type
BMW Advanced
Oxford Oximiser 900
Oxford Maximiser 360T
Battery Tender wp 800
Battery Tender International plus
Tecmate Optimate 5
Tecmate CanBus edition
CTEK MXS 5.0
CTEK XS 0.8
Battery charger NN (made in china sold at local Practiker shops)
Results to follow...
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